Bone Lick Park is an interesting space in New York’s Greenwich Village, with a small bar, plenty of seating, and a separate room with banquette tables. Over the bar is a huge Coca cola script logo sign. Near the semi-open kitchen is a gigantic Mobil Oil symbol. There are also artful displays for liquors and Tabasco sauces, both nicely done. And there’s also the obligatory (for Manhattan, at least) pile of wood by the entry. The overall vibe is 1950s diner, and it works.
As for the food, Bone Lick Park has pork (babyback only) and beef ribs, as well as pulled pork, sausage, smoked turkey and pastrami, and fried or barbecued chicken. At lunch they have fried oyster po’ boys and fried catfish sandwiches, as well as a smoked salmon plate. They have catfish and trout at dinnertime. They don’t have brisket.
On a lunch visit, I tried the 2-meat combo with babybacks and pulled pork. I honestly wasn’t expecting much, but the ribs were pretty good: pink, slightly smoky, exceptionally meaty for babybacks. Flavor was adequate, tenderness was perfect (tender but still some bite), and the sauce was forgettable. The pulled pork was also pretty good, with tender pieces including a lot of bark, but also a lot of fat.
The one table sauce was the typical sweet-tangy-spicy compromise.
Cornbread was foul, with a cheesy aftertaste. I especially wasn’t expecting much from the baked beans, but they were surprisingly good. Not really Southern style, but nicely flavored with good doses of black pepper, pork bits and scallions. I wish they gave you more than 1 side with the entrees.
Service was fairly comatose.
The bottom line: Decent barbecue, probably as good as anything below 23rd Street in Manhattan, but nothing to rave about.